Vilankulo, where sky and sea merge into us
After three fantastic days in the paradise of Pomene (see Xonguila issue 40), we are eager to reach another paradise: Vilankulo. Like the stretch between Maxixe and Massinga, this part of the N1 from Massinga to Vilankulo (Pambarra) is in excellent condition.
After a few kilometres, we begin to see the old giants: the baobabs! What majestic trees they are! On either side of the road, they all but force us to stop and admire them up close and unhurriedly, the same way they grew, without haste.
From Massinga to Pambarra, where we have to turn off for Vilankulo, it is 167 km, which takes two hours, without any difficulty. There, we turn towards the Indian Ocean and, along a less well-kept but still acceptable road, we are only 20 km from our destination.
Our arrival in Vilankulo reveals a city full of energy, full of drive, vibrant. Yet even with all this energy, nobody is seen hurrying or running, except for a few children chasing a ball. Everything is calm, unhurried, but purposeful. I confess that this "tranquil" bustle took hold of us well beyond our stay here.
The road that brought us here leads straight into the city centre (it has only been a city since 25 February 2020!). Plenty of people in the street, shops open, a well-kept main street, wide enough for traffic to flow smoothly. Despite all the bustle, everything seems organised, except in the vicinity of the Municipal Market – there everything seems somewhat chaotic, with fish coming in and going out, a constant coming and going of people, products, cars, lorries...
We carry on and arrive at our accommodation, Vilancool Beach Resort. A two-storey building awaits us, literally on the beach, small, comfortable and with everything we need. From the very first moment we felt at home.
It is worth explaining here the reason for the title of this article: Vilankulo is a city of sea and sky. There is no way to separate them when we see them. The blue of the sea merges with the blue of the sky in a single line, and together they merge into us. And the people reflect in their state of mind the paradise they live in. In the seven days we spent there (we already miss it), we felt only good humour, calm, peace of mind, friendship and good feelings. Of course, not even paradise is perfect, but there we are closer to perfection. Perhaps that is why the merging of blues enchanted us.
I remember the moment when a large family of net fishermen, 20 metres from the sand, united by the common good and common needs, began to haul in their fishing net. It is heavy work, but one that children and not-so-children did with precision and satisfaction. When they gathered the net and saw the result of their work, the smiles and happy looks became intense, thrilled... I photographed that whole moment. That happiness took hold of me! I felt I was merging into that land and those people. I will certainly return!
What to visit/see?
In Vilankulo the options are many and varied! Sometimes, depending on how long we are staying, it will be hard to choose what to visit and/or see. Vilankulo has many attractions, for different tastes, from the calmest to the most extravagant. Our selection is based on a more family-oriented concept, which will allow excellent moments shared by everyone and some rest. Our tips:
1. Bazaruto National Park – One of the most beautiful natural paradises in our country! The Bazaruto Archipelago National Park is made up of five islands: Bazaruto, Benguerra, Magaruque, Santa Carolina and Bangué, and was created in 1971. It was recently named the best island destination in the Africa and Indian Ocean category by Condé Nast Traveller magazine.
There are several accommodation options in the archipelago, but prices are high, so we chose to visit by boat – cheaper, and without missing out on visiting and seeing what we wanted.
We went as a family, in a small boat, with only us on board (which we recommend), and in that way we decided what we would visit. We started with 2 Mile Reef (which I discuss below), then went in search of whales – they were very shy that day, and we only spotted two, without much visibility; then we headed to Bazaruto island, which has fantastic dunes, tall ones, that give us a unique panoramic view. Some parts are harder to climb, but the effort is rewarded.
Bringing the catering and equipment for a special lunch is part of the service offered by the companies that run these trips – we recommend it!!! Then, the water is an indescribable blue! The calm of the sea, like an infinite swimming pool, the search to spot dugongs and sea turtles (species protected by the Park), and having dolphins playing for us two or three metres from the boat, filled another part of our day.
Before heading back, we strolled on a beach on Benguerra island, all on our own. Back on the boat, with a crew who only wanted to see us happy and pleased with the trip, we followed the coast of Benguerra island, seeing the various hotels and lodges. One of the best moments was saved for the return: the sunset seen from the sea! I think it must be one of the most beautiful ways to watch this magical moment.
2. Red Dunes - North of Vilankulo, there is a large area of red sand dunes. Although they look strange because of their colour, they are in fact beautiful. Access is relatively easy, the climb is not too difficult, and the moment we reach the top, we have a fantastic view of the interior and the sea. From the top we see the sea and the Bazaruto archipelago, and up there there are usually some local children, jumping and playing in the red sand. Do this activity at the end of the day, with a small snack, so that you can enjoy a magnificent sunset.
3. Bahia Mar Boutique Hotel – It is possibly the best hotel in Vilankulo, with all the amenities of a five-star hotel, but with the size of a small, comfortable and luxurious boutique hotel. It is definitely one of the places we recommend for a stay, especially if you are a couple.
But we went to see the Wellness Centre, which can be used by anyone, even non-guests, as well as the Restaurant, which has excellent cooking and offers us local flavours, without forgetting more sophisticated dishes. We recommend both, so you can take the chance to "laze" a whole day at the hotel, by the pool and with a magnificent view over the Bazaruto archipelago, to rest and forget everything else!...
4. "2 Mile Reef" – Not everyone will feel at ease being in the sea equipped for snorkelling, but we can say: IT IS REALLY WORTH IT. The natural, untouched beauty of this reef, which the Park rangers do everything to protect, is breathtaking. Although we arrived at the site before nine in the morning, and in the middle of winter, no cold was going to get us out of the sea. For over an hour, with just goggles, a snorkel and a pair of fins, we filled ourselves with beautiful images, as if we were inside a National Geographic documentary. The diversity of fish, crustaceans, molluscs and corals makes you not want to leave the water. It is worth every second they let us stay there.
5. A walk along Vilankulo beach at low tide – A simple activity that we loved was the two or three walks we took along Vilankulo beach. At low tide we could walk a long way out towards the sea, that is, move away from the shore, walking with water up to our ankles, to the large sandbanks further out. It is relaxing and invigorating. There, far from everyone, we can lie down in small pools formed in the sand, see enormous starfish and a few colourful fish. It is a walk to be done hand in hand.
6. Water activities – There are diving centres that make it possible to go to the most exclusive dive sites. Activities such as paddleboarding or going out to sea in kayaks are excellent, as the sea is always calm. You can go to watch the sunset in a canoe on the Govuro River, which must be dazzling, but which we did not have time to do – it was left for next time!
7. A walk through the neighbourhoods – As a photographer, walking around to get to know my surroundings is a necessity. I left the family to their moments of relaxation and set off with Dalton on a walk through the nearest neighbourhood. Dalton is from Maputo, but has lived in Vilankulo for 6 years and seems to know everyone. As well as managing the lodge where he works, he manages the Residence for the Elderly. The walk through the neighbourhood is long and very interesting. We crossed bridges built by the residents, small and large paths, saw houses built with various materials, in various shapes, smiling or curious faces, women who wanted to be photographed, men who turned away, children who edged in to see what we were photographing... We passed by the airport, bakeries and fishmongers, and drank an ice-cold beer on a small terrace. We were always surrounded by smiles and good signs. We ended our walk watching a football match, on a difficult pitch full of supporters of both teams. I could not have asked for more. We recommend this kind of walk, because in this way we get to know the reality of the places we visit and of the people.
The people
Inhambane really is the "Land of Good People". We are not talking only about the city, but about the whole province. In Vilankulo, as in the rest of it, we are always welcomed with a smile. But that is no surprise, since the "Good People" live in paradise. How could they not be this smiling and happy? Anyone reading these lines who has been to Vilankulo will understand what I say here.
Having arrived in Vilankulo, we went straight to the accommodation we had chosen (on a friend's recommendation) and the place was peace itself – soon Dalton, the lodge manager, arrived. The expression on his face and his voice did not lie – he was our friend even before we had greeted each other! What more can we say of people who always made us feel at home, who smiled at us, who shared a table on a terrace just so we could talk about life, theirs and ours, over an ice-cold beer? "Good People" of Inhambane, khanimambo!
The City of Vilankulo
Vilankulo is a vibrant city, full of life, of some size and with most of the services needed for a pleasant and comfortable stay. There are two good supermarkets – where there is almost everything, and of good quality; almost all the lodges are on the beach and have good restaurants; the fish and seafood are excellent and super fresh; we are always welcomed with a smile; everything in Vilankulo is pleasant and tranquil; it is the ideal place for a family holiday or one for two, a quiet holiday, but not too still.
Where to stay?
We stayed at Vilancool Beach Resort, which we strongly recommend. It has three types of accommodation, and the service is very good. Vilancool Lodge uses a large part of its profits to improve the premises and to ensure that a Care Home for the Elderly always keeps running, without its residents – about 25 – bearing any costs, and being treated as if they were with their families. Bahia Mar Boutique Hotel is also an excellent option.
In Vilankulo the accommodation options are quite varied in terms of type (from camping to hotel), price and quality. All accommodation options are available online, by searching for "Vilankulo accommodation".
